wardrobe planning Q2/24

an appreciation of women behind the scenes

Inspiration:

I’ve always been fascinated by what women in creative industries actually wear. Phoebe Philo may be the first that comes to mind, but she’s not the only one — there’s Tonne Goodman (needs no introduction), Sarah-Linh Tran (Lemaire), Ashley Olsen (The Row), Gaia Repossi (of the eponymous jewelry house), Priscila Alexandre Spring (of Hermès). Always Joan Didion. And last but not least Sofia Coppola — her films and her style have been inspiring me for years. (Dear reader, who inspires you?)

There’s an unfussy matter-of-factness to these women’s self-presentations that really resonates with me. This is personal style distilled into a uniform approach: get dressed and get on with the day. I imagine this edited simplicity comes from being surrounded by creative stimulus all the time; your clothes are pared back because your creative energies are channeled into your work. I’ve long admired style that cuts to the chase. At this point in my life I feel like I’m finally arriving at my version of it.

Since I front loaded the year with a few ‘serious’ purchases already, the Q2 WP is mostly about filling a few wardrobe holes that add value, a bit of uncomplicated luxury and small doses of oomph to the spring rotation.

New in/Hits:

• the OG Bostons: the classic transitional season shoe. I find it amusing that The Row made their high end knockoff. (Dupes … they go both ways!) Despite what we’re seeing in the capital-F Fashion world, luxury doesn’t have to carry an astronomical price tag. I’d put the incredibly comfortable contoured fit of a Birk at the top of my list of everyday luxuries. Per the IPO last fall I figured now is a good time to cross these off the list. (I’ve noticed some superfluous fashion-y changes already, like giant gold buckles on some classic styles, sigh…) I got mine in taupe with the soft footbed, which feels buttery plush right out of the box, such a treat! Sizing-wise I’ve always found them to run TTS (e.g.: EU 38 = US 7-7.5), and if you don’t have wide feet, definitely go with the Narrow (their version of ‘regular’) width.

• vintage Max Mara cotton/silk car coat: one of those “I wasn’t looking, it found me” moments — kismet! Very lightweight, with special details like scalloped cuff sleeves. Tailored yet relaxed, and feels like wearing a cool breeze. Lighter than my trench and utility jackets, so it fills a warm spring outer layer niche before we head into full on summer cotton/linen season. I love cotton/silk and wool/silk blends, and I especially love the subtle sheen from the silk while the cotton adds just enough structure. Looking forward to incorporating this into the rotation!

vintage Max Mara car coat | Uniqlo tank | Zara faux leather joggers (old, similar) | Adidas sneakers

Wishlist:

• a second pair of my favorite slip-on 'sneaker loafers’: something has to be really good for me to buy more than one, and after almost a decade these sporty but refined slip-ons are my #1 most-worn shoes, year after year. Considering a lighter neutral color for my second pair. My original black leather ones are now nine years old, and other than needing an occasional light clean¹ they still look great with no significant wear. No initial breaking in needed either. Comfy for all-day walking, stylish, and easy-on-and-off for the airport. Sizing still runs a bit large; consider a half size down.

• straight leg ankle length medium blue jeans: (also considering these by Mother thanks to a reader rec, and this J.Crew version.) So it turns out I spoke too soon about opting out of The Denim Industrial Complex — a straight leg jean is the remaining hole in my denim wardrobe. A denim white whale? Maybe. This is the slim-loose jean that all the supers and celebs wore in those ‘90s airport style pics. (Btw, I would not recommend jeans for long haul flights.) Ideally 99% cotton (or all cotton) denim in a vintage medium blue wash. I haven’t bought new jeans in years, this should be interesting. Will report back!

• a few wrinkle-resistant men’s button-down shirts: historically this has been too good to be true clothing territory, right? I’ve always stayed away from fabrics advertised as “wrinkle-resistant” because they’ve tended to be weirdly crispy, not great on-the-skin fabrications with a high synthetic content. But I’m optimistic that 2024 textile technology has in fact advanced to where a shirt can be 100% cotton and yet still look fresh (or at least 90% fresh) sans ironing. Continuing with the everyday + travel wardrobe project, a blue and a white collared shirt in a slouchy fit hits the right balance between put-together but not too serious.

• ‘90s supermodel ribbed tanks: I bought one last year to test out and it passed the style + washer/dryer tests. Getting a couple more in the black/white/beige trifecta to replace a few of my decade-old pima cotton tanks that have finally worn out. A tank is the foundation to most of my outfits year-round and they’re always on my packing list. The midweight ribbed cotton and high neck/scooped detail at the straps reminds me of the best of Y2K Christy Turlington circa the b/w Calvin Klein era.

• cotton jersey barrel joggers: the replacement for the elegant sweatpants from the Q1 list that didn’t work out. Always on the lookout for downtime essentials that are stylishly versatile in the outside world. These are giving me Japanese wabi-sabi vibes, and I like it.

• a narrow belt with a cool buckle: no idea what the contenders are yet on this one, but I like the idea of a belt as a piece of functional ‘waist jewelry’. As a belt under-utilizer (I’ve never been a belt-wearer with jeans or trousers), I’m challenging myself this year to wear them more and use them to remix (like remixing accessories) my existing tops and outer layers.

TBD:

• those glove flats: carried over from Q1’s list. I thought about these, then thought some more, and I’ll have more thoughts soon on why I’m overthinking it.

Style Notes:

i. Legendary tailor Martin Greenfield passed away last month. His NYT obituary is a beautifully moving tribute to a life well lived. My beloved Rag & Bone tux jacket was from one of their early collections when R&B was working with Greenfield Clothiers. Not sure if the women’s suiting was made in his shop, but my jacket is exquisitely tailored and made in the USA. It’s a very special piece in my closet.

ii. Have you heard? It’s form-fitting jeans o’clock (again). (Raise your hand if you’ve opted out of the “in/out” game at this point.) I think we’ve been living in a post-denim society where multiple jean genres are all happening simultaneously, and thank goodness for choice! Here’s to a self-centered wardrobe + an array of denim styles for the well balanced closet. More thoughts on this soon.

iii. This week’s recs on what to stream while folding laundry: Sofia Coppola’s Fresh Air interview from last fall and this one with writer and actress Diarra Kilpatrick. I cannot resist a whodunit with a side of comedy — adding Diarra from Detroit to my TV watchlist (along with Only Murders in the Building). PS: I am really enjoying cohost Tonya Mosley’s warm and curious interviewing style.

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What are you reaching for and shopping for this spring?

1. I use compostable alcohol-free water-based baby wipes (a great all-purpose multitasker) to clean off any dirt on the leather. If I’m feeling extra fastidious I’ll wipe off any scuff marks on the rubber trim. Getting into sneaker head territory, I know. But hey, it feels good to give some TLC back to my hardworking shoes.